Nova Scotia September 2007

Troy and I visited Nova Scotia Sept 23-30, 2007. We met up with Jocelyn and Todd on the first day in Pictou, near the Northumberland Strait, staying at the BNB Evening Sail. The service and accommodations were awesome, and the morning breakfast shouldn't be missed, no matter how comfortable the beds.

Then it was about a four hour drive to Cape Breton, crossing the Canso Causeway and catching the Cabot Trail near Baddeck, then through St. Anns and along the eastern coast, passing dozens of attractive BNBs before arriving at Singing Pebbles in Wreck Cove. It was well worth the drive! Everything else looked average after taking in the gardens, critters, and Atlantic views that accompanied us in the following days. Some of the things we loved about the place:

The animals. Dogs Fiona and Cyrus were keen on scratches and belly rubs, and happily accompanied us on walks on the beach.
Fowl like ducks, chickens, turkeys, and pheasants (?) have free run of the gardens and squawk contentedly in the morning.

The hosts. Jitka and Gilbert shared their homes and lifestyle, and prompted the distinction of possibility from Todd. It is so ideal - woodworking, the utility of small farm machines, fresh air, an abundance of birch and maple, gardens with fresh herbs and vegetables, mountain stream-fed ponds, and dogs lazing in the grass. I think we were all quite at home. Jitka keeps busy with claywork and kilns, with a workshop and a small store occupying the first two levels of the cottage where we stayed.

The cottage. Cozy but comfortable for the four of us. There's a full kitchen so we were able to make some good dinners with wine and movies.

The views. Gardens, mountains, ocean, yada yada. On our last nights there we sat on the deck, wrapped in blankets, sipping beer/tea, watching the full moon rise over the Atlantic. During the day I watched for whales from the kitchen table.

One of our primary reasons for the location was the proximity to hiking. Within 30 minutes of arrival, Troy and Todd took off up the nearest trail - 20 feet from the cottage door - and weren't seen til it was nearly dark. They made it to the top, checking out Gilbert's latest cabin underway up the large hill/small mountain.

On Tuesday the four of us hiked the Franey Mountain loop in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It is a moderately rugged three hour loop that left me winded at the top of the climbs, and rewarded us with wondrous views of the terrain and the ocean. Todd got some great shots of local foliage, specializing in mosses and fungi.

Jocelyn and Todd had to head back early on Wednesday because apparently there is another world where people have to work :( but we were fortunate that they could meet up with us for the few days and enjoy this amazing countryside.

Wednesday was gorgeous and - HOT - probably around 80 - quite warm for the area in early fall. Troy and I packed a light lunch and headed to Cape Smokey for a hike. It was down, and up, and down, and up, down, up, down for about two hours - more awesome views on the way - and resting at the end of the trail to reward ourselves with yummy fruit, granola bars, and a muffin in the peace of a bluff overlooking the ocean to the north. Then huffed it back on the return trail. It was a good hike that left me feeling healthy - and deserving - of hot chocolate, grilled cheese, and roasted red pepper soup, while Troy indulged in local lobster, at our new favorite restaurant in Ingonish.

Taking the advice of a lady at the Wreck Cove General Store ("You should go to White Point. If you come all this way and don't hike White Point, then what was the point of your visit." - put more as a statement than a question), we drove up to the northeastern side of the park to the small fishing village of White Point on Thursday. The lady was right! That place is taken out of a story book. There was a single road leading into the village of about 30 homes, and we took it til it became too rocky to continue by car. From there we crested the first hill to look out across island terrain and monument to the Unknown Sailor. Fortunately, there was a local with his friendly dogs who advised us on the trail that stretches along the eastern shore of the point, and we followed it to its end. It is a gentle trail, punctuated by wildflowers, and tracing the shoreline cliffs. It's advised to keep an eye on your steps as an err to the side could send you over the edge. Your arm stretched to the side will feel the stiff breeze pushing you up. But the views are worth it. Like everything about the region, it was beautiful.

Driving back down the coast we snuck in one more quick hike around the Jigging Cove Lake. We just wanted to soak up a little more of the terrain.

Friday we headed to Halifax, staying downtown at the Delta. We spent the evening at the Economy Shoe Shop for dinner, and caught up over beers with Roy, in town on business from Toronto. That place is really lively, and has pretty decent food. Saturday we did the usual city stuff: hit the Maritime Museum (good Titanic display) and all our favorite Canadian shops (MEC, Roots, and mmmmm Cows). The one place missing was Licks! I guess that's just in Toronto.

The trip exceeded my expectations. The place is just so friendly and beautiful. I worry that it's vulnerable to commercialization, but maybe it's too far from major airports for the masses. I hope it stays just the way it is.

What the guidebooks won't tell you:

The Wreck Cove General Store offers very little, but they have the BEST brewed coffee. And organic fair trade, at that.

The apples in the display at the Halifax Roots store are real. Ask if you can have one - they're delicious.

The customs agent we had at the Halifax airport was uncharacteristically friendly and chatty, and provided advice on local pronunciations ("Some are in French, some are Aboriginal, some are Scottish . . . it can be really confusing, so I'm glad you asked. But Pictou is 'pick' 'toe'. Have a nice time!"). I'm not sure if that's typical for the area - definitely not true for Toronto area customs - but it was really nice.

More pictures can be viewed here